July 1, 2015. Posted by Michael Bourne.
A Montreal Jazzfest Haiku:
Sun breaks through the clouds
Fountains gush at the jazzfest
Kids dance in the street
Place des Arts is the biggest performing arts center in Canada, and, like the jazz festival, gets bigger every year. Also better.
They've not only terraformed a street, a hill, and empty buildings into the Quartier des Spectacles and year-round Maison du Festival, they're now reconstructing the abandoned buildings next to the jazzfest "house" into what will be centers as impressive for film and ballet. I'm architecturally amazed how they somehow squeezed an enormous Symphonic Hall where there used to be festival eats and a playland for kids. And at the center of Place des Arts, although mostly seen from above, there's also a massive rebuilding on the roof over the promenade to the halls and shops below. Don't know what that's for.
Along with the landscaping and streetwork, installing the fountains and erecting the light poles, two very nice restaurants were opened in the Quartier des Spectacles, one French, one Portuguese. I opted for the latter's lunch, the cholesterol special, steak with a fried egg on top.
Folks everywhere in red, white, and blue ... shorts, shirts, sneakers, make-up. Especially on young women. So much is happening in Montreal, jazzfest, clownfest, I didn't realize the Women's World Cup was being played at The Big O, the erstwhile Olympic stadium that became the Expos baseball stadium where today Germany and the US are playing futbol. I've been where the jazzfests (and entire cities) have shut down for the final game. Istanbul. Vienna. Perugia. I've been in Montreal when the final game was being played. However loud was the music around Place des Arts, the honking and hooting of soccer fans driving around was louder. Today, not as much soccer noise for the women as for the men many times -- even though the American women beat Germany.
Drizzle came again, and we wetly judged a couple of bands. Between the judgings, Kurt Rosenwinkel was playing solo at the Gesu. Solo but technologically surrounded. A computer. A synthesizer. A footbank of doohickeys amplifying, echoing, playing an electronic beat. All, again, playing melodies going every which way.
I wondered if the heavier rain might shut down the Grande Evenement tonight: the folk-ish, classical-ish, jazz-ish, pop-ish Barr Brothers. I was indoors anyway for a farewell to the festival. Vic Vogel is an icon of Canadian jazz, as a composer, as a pianist, as a big band leader, and as a beloved-but-grouchy character. He's the only musician who's played FIJM year after year from the jump, and, at 80, tonight's concert was to be his last with his band. Sadly, he was too sick to be on stage at the Maisonneuve. Happily, he was videotaped welcoming everyone and introducing his band.
I first encountered Vic Vogel twenty years ago when the Jazz Journalists Association gathered in Montreal for a conference during the jazzfest. Vic came in and grumped at all of us, wanting to know why we American critics don't write much (if at all) about Canadian musicians. We didn't have an answer, but we deserved his wrath. Most of us didn't know who he was -- or, really, much at all about jazz above the 49th parallel. I got to hear his band during the festival's 25th anniversary. Some of us, along with governmental movers and shakers, were boated to an island in the river. There, in a concrete arena leftover from the Olympics decades ago, Vogel's band swung heartily. I've heard him since through the years and especially remember a concert when he celebrated Dizzy.
Some of the cats have played with Vogel for many years, including two of his best soloists, alto saxist Dave Turner and tenor saxist Andre Leroux. Filling in for Vogel was a who's who of Montreal piano, including Lorraine Desmarais and Oliver Jones. Together, they played highlights from Vogel's bandbook, including several of his arrangements of jazz classics -- "Con Alma," "Strollin'," "Giant Steps" -- and a ferocious "Georgia on My Mind" with blues singer Martin Deschamps.
Rain was done when I came out. A harpist (from the Barr Brothers) was loudly plucking. I walked back to the Gesu for an exquisite concert of accordionist Richard Galliano and guitarist Sylvain Luc playing songs of Edith Piaf. I could almost hear the hearts of all the folks who'd grown up loving Piaf's records. And at the last, they heartfully sang-along.
© 2015 WBGO
June 30, 2015. Posted by Michael Bourne.
11AM...Festival day begins with the presentation of the FIJM audiovisual archives, including 2660 videos from 30 years of concerts, interviews, and much more from the festival, to the Biblioteque et archive nationales de Quebec...a.k.a. the BAnQ. Includes the performance of the first featured artist in 1980, Ray Charles. Also the first filmed concerts of Diana Krall, Pat Metheny, and the Marsalis Brothers. Festival legends Miles Davis, Sonny Rollins, and Dave Brubeck. Montreal jazz icons Oscar Peterson, Oliver Jones, and Vic Vogel. Not only is the collection a history of this wonderful jazzfest, it's also a wonderful history of this musical art.
NOON ... overcast -- but blue sky is breaking through! And down below the window, the musical day begins with the Jazzfest des Jeunes (Jazzfest of Kids). Today's "jeunes" come from the high school of Neufchatel, Quebec. It's a jazz big band but they play plenty of R&B. "Pick Up the Pieces" picks me up.
1PM ... drizzle -- and the break of blue sky is swallowed by grey clouds ... umbrellas below, but a New Orleans marching band band plays on.
2PM ... drizzle done, clouds turning white, sun shining through ... time for a pizza.
I am a creature of ritual, especially in Montreal. One of my first (and favorite) rituals for several years has been to immediately have a pizza with Vincent Lefebvre, FIJM wrangler of the international media and a good friend. We always have gone to one of my favorite pizza joints in the world, each somewhat different, all called Pizzedelic. They used to have four around town, but the one on St. Laurent and the one on St. Denis closed last year, and now the one across from the Notre Dame basilica, the one where the WBGO trippers have gone with me, the one Vincent and I considered our Pizzedelic is gone! Only open now is the one farthest away from the jazzfest, the one on Montroyal Est -- and we couldn't get there when I got here!
After four days without, at last I taxi'd there and was happier than all the little kids at tables around me coloring cartoons on the menu. Years ago, when I first discovered the Pizzedelic up the hill from the jazzfest on St. Laurent, they didn't have a menu. Menu items were printed on several strips of plastic, including one with all the stuff you can have on your pizza. Back then, you could get a pizza with snails! Since then, they've offered a variety of mixed and matched toppings, not including snails anymore. You can get a square and thin pie crust now that's gluten-free. I care only that I can get just the right gathering of toppings. I sometimes start with a basic pepperoni Americain, or maybe chevre et noix (goat cheese and walnuts). I opted as my first pizza of 2015 to start with black olives, mozzarella and feta cheese, plus my favorite extra, saucisson Calabrese, a wide-sliced spicy salami. I added also even spicier chorizo and artichokes. All the better with a pint of red ale, Boreale rousse.
Not to forget, music also was happening at Festival international de JAZZ de Montreal.
5PM: judging at the "Casino" -- a trombone/bass/drums trio.
5:30: a group called Swing Connection, kids that teach swing dancing with a band every week, dancing in the street again to Pops and Basie's "Every Tub."
6PM: guitarist Kurt Rosenwinkel at the Gesu with a quartet: Aaron Parks on piano, Eric Revis on bass, Allan Mednard on drums. They played some of the most pure and powerful melodies I've heard. Not so much the usual song forms, Rosenwinkel's melodies sound romantic but often with a rock intensity, melodies that I scribbled in the dark "rush like a river." Rosenwinkel creates that much more of a unique sound scatting his voice electronically with his strings ringing. "Samba" by Rosenwinkel blew the roof off. "Ballade" by Parks was exquisite. Rosenwinkel is playing one of this year's FIJM "Invitation" series of concerts, tomorrow playing solo.
7:30: folks bouncing to a klezmer band in the beer tent, folks cheering with a circus band in the street.
8PM: John Scofield and Joe Lovano at the Maisoneuve, reunited after more than a decade. Larry Grenadier on bass. Bill Stewart on drums. I've always heard the DNA of Ornette Coleman when Sco and Joe have played together, and I could hear it right away as they came out ramblin' -- Joe's "Cymbalism" indeed reminds me of Ornette's "Ramblin'." Joe's sound on the tenor sax is always big and soulful. So is his presence on the stage. When he solos, he dances. John's sound on the guitar is uniquely lyrical. In each note that he plays, you can hear the very steel of his strings singing. They played Joe's tribute to Ornette and tunes they've recorded on an album that comes out in October, called "Past and Present." They climaxed with Bill Stewart exploding (felt like rhythmic shrapnel) on Sco's barndance-on-acid romper "Chap Dance." They encored with the blues.
10PM: I missed another master of the guitar, Bill Frisell. Always so much happening in Montreal. Often all at once at FIJM. Sorry to have missed saxophonist Jane Bunnett with the Cuban singers called Maqueque. Alex Pangman, called in the jazzfest program "the darling of Canadian swing, " was s(w)inging on the big RTA free stage. I heard only "The World Is Waiting for the Sunrise."
10:30: Heads of State at the Gesu, masters all. Gary Bartz on soprano & alto sax. Larry Willis, piano. Buster Williams, bass. Al Foster, drums. Bartz, playing by himself, opened with a quietly enthralling "I Wish I Knew." Bartz, as a charming MC, was delighted that the Montreal audience is so enthusiastic. "I feel like we're in church," he said -- which the Gesu (French for Jesus) indeed is. They played McCoy Tyner's "Passion Dance" and (title track on the new album, added just today at wbgo.org/radar) "Search For Peace," John Coltrane's "Impressions," Bartz's "Uncle Bubba," and one of Buster's hip re-arrangements of a standard, Cole Porter's "All of You." These cats know how.
© 2015 WBGO
June 29, 2015. Posted by Michael Bourne.
Most of the outdoor concerts were cancelled. Only groups on stages with canopies were playing. Only festgoers huddled under umbrellas were listening. But the music kept them smiling.
© 2015 WBGO